My ski lexicon

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1

1:25000 map
(German (Germany) 1:25000 Karte Danish (Denmark) 1:25000 kort )

On a 1:25000 map correspond 4 cm to 1 km in reality, also know as a 4cm map

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1:50000 map
(German (Germany) 1:50000 Karte Danish (Denmark) 1:50000 kort )

On a 1:50000 map correspond 2 cm to 1 km in reality, also know as a 2 cm map

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3

3x3 Method
(Danish (Denmark) 3x3 Metode German (Germany) 3x3-Methode )

The 3x3 Reduction Method are used to find the acceptable avalanche risk before going in to mountains

3x3 MethodTo top of page

A

About avalanches
(Danish (Denmark) Om laviner German (Germany) Über Lawinen )

In the Alps about 100 people die annually in avalanche accidents. There are 2 types of avalanche are normally dangerous to ski and snowboarder: Wet-snow avalanche and slab avalanches. A wet-snow avalanche is triggered normally by itself and is only a danger to person if you stand under it in the wrong time. A slab avalanche is triggered normally by having a load on it. So it is an active release of a person. This is the type of avalanches which cause most accidents. An avalanche snow layer is formed from snow that is not bound very well to the other snow layer. How the top snow layer will glide on the other snow layers when there is an additional load. To avoid avalanche you should read the avalanche bulletin, it tells where there is danger of avalanche (Height, exposure mountainside slope) it requires much experience in being able to do so. The European avalanche hazard scale is defined by 5 levels. It is published every morning at 07:30, where various weather stations have measured the strength of the snow layer.

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Allcord
(Danish (Denmark) Rebsnor German (Germany) Reepschnüre )

Allcord is used for many different functions when climbing in the mountains or on the glacier tours. It is a principle of an additional short piece of rope. The standard for mountain tours are 3 pieces of the length 1,2,4 meters.

Allcord (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Allcord as safety Precautions by rappelling
(German (Germany) Rebschnur (Hintersicherung /Prusik ) für abseilen Danish (Denmark) Rebsnor som sikkerhedsforanstaltninger ved rappell )

If the rope use to brake is released accidentally, the figure 8 looses its breaking power. Therefore, one should always use an Allcord as safety Precautions

Allcord as safety Precautions by rappelling (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Alpine distress signal
(German (Germany) Alpines Notsignal Danish (Denmark) Alpe nød signal )

The Alpine distress signal traditionally consists of a signal from a whistle or torch which is repeated six times in the minute (every ten seconds). It is to be repeated after one minute of break in same manner. The reply to such a signal is given with three indications per minute (every 20 seconds) and likewise repeated after one minute of break. Thus it can be confirmed to the person/party in trouble that its distress signal was received.

Reference
http://de.wikipedia.org/
Alpine distress signal (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Alpine Skis
(German (Germany) Alpin ski Danish (Denmark) Aplin ski )

Skis used in Alpine Skiing are precise, fast, and excellent for hard groomed Pist. They are designed for easy turning. The Ski Bindings securely fasten the foot to the Ski at toe and heel. It has a mechanism that detaches the Ski from the foot in case the force applied goes beyond the preset value. Alpine Skis are suitable for advanced to race levels.

Alpine Skis (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
altitude zones
(German (Germany) Höhenlage Danish (Denmark) Højde zoner )

high altitude: 2000 to 3000 m intermediate altitude 1000 to 2000 m low altitude below 1000 m

Reference
http://www.slf.ch/
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Aspect
(German (Germany) Exposition, Hangrichtung Danish (Denmark) Eksponering, hældning retning )

Direction into which a slope faces as indicated by compass direction of the fall line. E.g. a north slope faces to the north direction

Reference
http://www.avalanches.org
Aspect (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalanche backpacks
(Danish (Denmark) Lavine rygsæk German (Germany) Lawinen Rucksäcke )

If you are caught in an avalanche, you can trigger an "Airbag" which is integrated into backpack; it will increase your buoyancy in the avalanche. In this way you can avoid being dragged down by avalanches and ending up in the surface. This will increase your chance of survival.Two manufacturers currently: ABS (according SLF database 120 cases documented in Europe, of which 114 people (95%) survived), Snowpulse (available since spring 2008, yet no).

Reference
http://www.snowpulse.ch/
Avalanche backpacks (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalanche danger
(Danish (Denmark) Lavine fare German (Germany) Lawinengefahr )

From this point on is there Avalanche danger

Avalanche dangerTo top of page
Avalanche Danger Scale - Europe
(German (Germany) Europäischen Lawinengefahrenskala Danish (Denmark) Europæiske Lavine fare skala )

Since 1993, there are the single European avalanche danger scale. The Avalanche Warning Bavaria, Austria, Italy, Switzerland, France, Slovenia and Spain agreed on a common system of classification of the avalanche danger.

Reference
http://www.avalanche-center.org
Avalanche Danger Scale - Europe (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalanche emergency equipment recommendation
(German (Germany) Standard-Lawine Notfallausrüstung Empfehlungen Danish (Denmark) Lavine nødudstyrets anbefaling )

Standard Avalanche emergency equipment recommendations of the Alpine Club A) Standard emergency equipment (always and every time): LVS, not older than 10 years, preferably 3-antenna devices, shovel, preferably made of hardened aluminium; probe, at least 240 cm long. Additional: First-aid equipment, bivouac sack, mobile phone (number of units depending on group size). B) Recommended additional emergency equipment (in order of their importance and their effectiveness): 1. Airbag Systems Balloon systems, which itself will need to generate an additional volume of 150 l or 170 and thereby promote flowing effect in avalanches. Rescue Principle: The dept of burial is reduce or prevented, "who stays up, survived - mostly." Two manufacturers currently: ABS (according SLF database 120 cases documented in Europe, of which 114 people (95%) survived), SnowPulse (available since spring 2008, yet no documented injuries). 2. Avalung allows you to breathe through a filter and separates the breath intake and outtake to breathe under the snow. Rescue Principle: Survival in the avalanche is extended. Five documented successful rescues. 3. Avalanche Ball Further development of the former "avalanche cord. A folded ball fitted with a clamping spring with a cord attach to the body. When triggered the ball jumps from the bag and will remain visible at the surface. Rescue principle: location system - like LVS - however, optical, not electronic. Two success stories since 1997 (according to manufacturer's homepage). 4. Recco In clothing (helmet, shoes, jacket) integrated reflector allows for the tracking (radar principle) of victims who do not carry LVS. Searching is only by organized rescue team with Recco detector possible.

Reference
http://www.oeav.at/
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Avalanche probe
(German (Germany) Lawinensonde Danish (Denmark) Lavinesonde )

Avalanche probe an invaluable tool in search of avalanche victims. You use the probe to stick done in the snow to find the person who is buried under the avalanche.

Avalanche probe (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalanche shovel
(German (Germany) Lawinenschaufel Danish (Denmark) Lavineskovl )

An avalanche shovel is designed dig out people who are buried in an avalanche

Avalanche shovel (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalanche transceiver Beacons
(German (Germany) Lawinenverschüttetensuchgerät (LVS) Danish (Denmark) Lavine Bibber )

An avalanche transceiver is a small device, about the size of a paperback and weighing around 200 grams. It enables a group of off-piste enthusiasts to mount their own search and rescue operation in the event of an avalanche.

Reference
http://pistehors.com/
Avalanche transceiver Beacons (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Avalung
(German (Germany) Avalung Danish (Denmark) Avalung )

With the AvaLung, someone buried by an avalanche is able to breathe the oxygen contained in the snow. Even heavily compressed snow has an air component of at least 50%. The person’s exhaled air is directed into the snowpack at the rear corner of the pack, away from the fresh air intake zone. This dramatically increases the amount of time a victim can breathe and stay alive while trapped in the snow

Avalung (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

B

Backpack (Climbing/Tracking)
(German (Germany) Rucksack (Klettern / Tracking) Danish (Denmark) Rygsæk (Klatring / Tracking) )

A backpack for climbing and tracking should be the size of 30 litre, small and with not to much external attachment so it don’t get caught in the rocks when you are climbing

Backpack (Climbing/Tracking) (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Barryvox
(German (Germany) Barryvox Danish (Denmark) Barryvox )

Barryvox is derived from the name of the Avalanche beacons devices from the company Mammut, which in turn recalls the memory to the legendary Avalanche rescue dog Barry.

Barryvox (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Binoculars
(German (Germany) Fernglas Danish (Denmark) Kikkerter )

Binoculars are good to have with you to find the best descent, or the best route.

Binoculars (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Bivouac sack
(German (Germany) Biwaksack Danish (Denmark) Bivuak sæk )

A bivouac sack (also known as a bivy sack, bivvy bag, bivi bag or just bivy) is an extremely small, lightweight, waterproof and windproff shelter

Bivouac sack (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Black colour = Difficult Slopes
(German (Germany) Schwarze Farbe =Schwierige Pisten Danish (Denmark) Sort farver = svære løjper )

Runs which the maximum values for red slopes exceed, are designate black.

Black colour = Difficult SlopesTo top of page
Blue colour = easy slope
(German (Germany) Blaue Farbe = Leichte Piste Danish (Denmark) Blå farve = nem piste )

Blue Runs allowed a maximum of 25% cross and downhill slope angle, with the exception of short parts in the open terrain.

Blue colour  = easy slopeTo top of page
breakable crust
(German (Germany) Bruchharsch Danish (Denmark) Bruchharsch )

Hard snow surface that breaks when stepped upon

Reference
http://www.avalanches.org
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C

Climbing shoes
(Danish (Denmark) Klatresko German (Germany) Kletterschuh )

Snug-fitting shoes with high-friction rubber soles and carefully designed edges that allow climbers to stand on tiny footholds

Climbing shoes (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Cable Strips
(German (Germany) Kabelbinder Danish (Denmark) Kabel strips )

When it is cold or wet it can happen that your ski skins do no prober glue to your skies any more, or the attachments can break. An easy solution is to use cable strips to attach the ski skin.

Cable Strips (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Camelbak
(German (Germany) Camelbak Danish (Denmark) Camelbak )

Instead of a drink bottle you can also use a Camelbak was your water supply for your mountains tours. You such the water from the container normally placed in your backpack from a tube. Only in winter can this be a disadvantage because the tube can freeze up

Camelbak (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Cap
(German (Germany) Mütze Danish (Denmark) Hue )

A good quality cap should always be with you on the tour to protect your head against the sun and the cold

Cap (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Check and Ride
(German (Germany) Check and Ride Danish (Denmark) Check and Ride )

Safety product to record the most important information given by the avalanche report.

Reference
http://www.ortovox.com
Check and Ride (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Chest Strap
(German (Germany) Brustgurt inkl. Einbindebandschlinge Danish (Denmark) Bryst sele )

The Chest Strap is optional equipment and can only be used in conjunction with a normal climbing harness. The Chest strap can give you an advantage if you are caring a heavy backpack because better balance in case of a fall. If you should use a chest strap or not is heavily discussed by the different Alpin clubs

Chest Strap (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Climbing grade
(German (Germany) Bewertungen von Klettertouren Danish (Denmark) Graderings tabel ved klatring )

In rock climbing, mountaineering and other climbing disciplines, climbers give a climbing grade to a route that concisely describes the difficulty and danger of climbing the route.

Reference
http://www.theuiaa.org
Climbing grade (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Climbing Harness
(Danish (Denmark) Klatreseler German (Germany) Klettergurt )

A climbing harness is a piece of equipment used in certain types of rock-climbing, abseiling or other activities requiring the use of ropes to provide access and/or safety. A harness is used to secure a person to a piece of rope or an anchor point.

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/
Climbing Harness (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Climbing helmet
(Danish (Denmark) Klatrehjelm German (Germany) Kletterhelm )

A climbing helmet is used to protect your head from falling stones when you are doing climbing

Climbing helmet (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Clove Hitch
(German (Germany) Mastwruf Danish (Denmark) Dobbelthalvstik )

You need Clove Hitch when you want to secure your self at the anchoring point. This self-insurance protects you from that crash. The Clove Hitch has the advantage that it can move without opening it

Clove Hitch (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Contour line
(German (Germany) Höhenlinie Danish (Denmark) Højdekurve )

Contour lines are curved or straight lines on a map describing the elevation of a current point on the topographic map.

Contour line (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Couloir
(Danish (Denmark) Couloir German (Germany) Couloir )

Steep, narrow gully bound by rocks on either side. Often containing rubble/screed. Terrain that is prone to accumulate wind drifted snow.

Couloir (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Crampons
(German (Germany) Steigeisen Danish (Denmark) Steigeisen )

Crampons are outdoor footwear that include pointed metal parts and are worn on boots to provide traction on snow and ice.

Crampons (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Crampons Mountaineering Boots (Class D)
(German (Germany) Steigeisenfeste Bergschuhe Danish (Denmark) Bjergbestignings Støvler for Steigeisen )

Fully crampon boots have mostly fixed to the shoe-mounted lever breakpoints for bonds, similar to ski bindings.

Crampons Mountaineering Boots  (Class D) (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Critical new snow depth
(German (Germany) Kritische Neuschneemenge Danish (Denmark) Kritisk nye sne mængde )

The new snow is a load for the old snow cover and hence increases the avalanche danger. The rule of thumb for the critical new snow depth is: 10 to 20 cm with unfavourable situations 20 to 30 cm with intermediate situations 30 to 50 cm with favourable situations Favourable: low to moderate wind speeds, air temperature close to 0°C, strongly irregular old snow surface, frequently skied slopes. Unfavourable: high rate of precipitation, strong winds (> 50 km/h, roaring wind), low temperature (below –5 to –10°C ), smooth old snow surface (surface hoar, melt-freeze crust or ice, , very old snow surface,), rarely skied slopes.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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Cross Country Skis
(German (Germany) Langlauf Ski Danish (Denmark) Langrends ski )

Skis in Cross Country Skiing are very thin and light, and have slightly straight Ski Edges most of the time. Like in Telemark Skis, the binding in a Cross-country Ski attaches only at the toe.

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DAV-SnowCard
(German (Germany) DAV-SnowCard Danish (Denmark) DAV-SnowCard )

The method from the German mountaineering club DAV to in a fast way to check and do risk assessment of avalanche danger

Reference
http://www.av-snowcard.de/
DAV-SnowCard (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Deutschen Alpenverein e.V.
(German (Germany) Deutschen Alpenverein e.V. Danish (Denmark) Deutschen Alpenverein e.V. )

As on 9 May 1869 the German Alpine Association (DAV) as "Common citizen Mountaineering Association" was launched, didn’t the founding fathers still nothing from the long-term success of their idea. Today is the German Alpine Club with 800,000 members of the well-largest mountain sports in the world.

Reference
http://www.alpenverein.de
Deutschen Alpenverein e.V.To top of page
Dig out an avalanche victim
(German (Germany) Ausgraben eines Lawinenverschütteten Danish (Denmark) Udgrav et lavine offer )

1) Measurement of the V-shaped Snow Belt 2) V-shaped line-up of the Saviours and the determination of the distances 3) work in sectors at the central snow conveyer: The snow will be transported with paddle movements 4) initial visual contact with the victim more rescuers are needed at the front. Careful work on the victim

Reference
www.bergundsteigen.at
Dig out an avalanche victim (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Distress sign for the helicopter pilot
(German (Germany) Notsignale für den Hubschrauberpilot Danish (Denmark) Nødsignal til helikopter piloten )

Yes = I need help / No = I need no help

Distress sign for the helicopter pilot (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Double ropes
(German (Germany) Halbseil Danish (Denmark) Halv reb )

Half ropes (8-9 mm) can, in contrast to twin ropes, used to secure two behind comingclimbers and can be mounted separately and in belay. They are slightly heavier than twin ropes. The standard fall test is performed with a 55-kg weight on the single string.

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/
Double ropes (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Drink bottle
(German (Germany) Trinkflasche Danish (Denmark) Drikker flaske )

Drink bottle with a least room for one litre of water

Drink bottle (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

E

Energie-Bars/Powerbar/PowerGel
(German (Germany) Energie-Riegel/Powerbar/PowerGel Danish (Denmark) Energie-Bar/Powerbar/PowerGel )

Energy bars or power gel provide a high concentration of carbohydrates, along with proteins and fats, to give the body the fuel it needs to continue functioning. It is good to have with your to boost your energy or in case of emergency

Energie-Bars/Powerbar/PowerGel (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Equidistance
(German (Germany) Äquidistanz Danish (Denmark) Ækvidistance )

Equidistance is the elevation height between 2 Contour lines

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Equipment for Glacier tours
(German (Germany) Ausrüstung für Gletcher-touren Danish (Denmark) Udstyr til Gletsjer ture )

1 Rope (Single), 50 m 1 Climbing Harness, possibly combined with chest harness 3 Screw locking carabineers (HMS), 2 carabineers 3 static cords, 6 mm, 1/3/3 m 1 Sling, 120 cm 1 Ice Screw, 21 cm 1 Tibloc Ascender

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F

Double Figure Eight Loop
(German (Germany) Achter knoten zum einbinden Danish (Denmark) 8 talsknude løkke )

Is used to secure you to the climbing rope

Double Figure Eight Loop (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Figure 8
(German (Germany) Abseil achter Danish (Denmark) 8 Tal (Abseil/Achter/Abseilbremse) )

The Figure 8 is used for rappelling and as a safety equipment when climbing

Figure 8 (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Firn
(German (Germany) Firn Danish (Denmark) Firn )

Partially compacted granular snow that is the intermediate stage between snow and glacial ice. It is formed under the pressure of the overlying snow by the processes of compaction, recrystallization and melting. These processes take about one year. In colloquial German also used for a softened surface crust.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch/
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First aid kit
(German (Germany) Erste-Hilfe-Set Danish (Denmark) Førstehjælps sæt )

A First Aid Kit should always be in you backpack. From the standard stuff I also includes, Compeed against blister, Ibuprofen (Against pain in the joint, anti-inflammatory), Aspirin (against headache), Bepanthen (to treat small skin wounds), Climbing tape (For repairs and bandages), CPR leaflet, small cord (For repairs)

First aid kit (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Fleece jacket
(German (Germany) Fleecejacke Danish (Denmark) Fleece jakke )

A fleece jacket is important to have in your backpack. You can wear this alone or under your wind proof jacket. This is important so you can dress in layers to keep warm.

Fleece jacket (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Freeride Skis
(German (Germany) Freeride Ski Danish (Denmark) Freeride Ski )

These are the type of Skis you should use when you have already mastered everything that the Ski area had to offer. They are excellent in tough conditions. Freeride Skis float through Powder Snow, cut through Crud Snow, and even slice through Slush Snow. This type of Skis is suited for advanced, expert race skiers.

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Freestyle Skis
(Danish (Denmark) Freestyle Ski German (Germany) Freestyle Ski )

Freestyle Skis are Special Skis used, obviously, in Freestyle Skiing. Each type of Freestyle Discipline, or any Skiing Discipline for that matter, requires its own type of Ski.

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Technical Friend
(German (Germany) Friends (Technical) Danish (Denmark) Friends (Technical) )

A spring-load camming device (SLCD) which comes in a variety of sizes to fit a variety of crack widths. Friends, the first camming devices, were invented by Yosemite climber Ray Jardine in the late 1970s to protect the valley’s smooth-sided cracks.

Technical Friend (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

G

Gaiters
(German (Germany) Gamasche Danish (Denmark) Gamacher )

Gaiters are garments worn over the shoe and lower pant leg, and used primarily to prevent snow and water to enter your boot

Gaiters (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Gerd Reiss
(German (Germany) Gerd Reiss Danish (Denmark) Gerd Reiss )

My climbing and ski tour friend for many years. Gerd is authorised climbing instructor from DAV and one of by best friends.

Gerd Reiss (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
GPS receiver
(German (Germany) GPS Gerärt Danish (Denmark) GPS-modtager )

A GPS navigation device is a device that receives Global Positioning System (GPS) signals for the purpose of determining the present location. New models also include digital maps, routing and tracking functions. This can be very useful for tour planning and in the mountains to keep on track and to track back in case of bad weather or poor sight

GPS receiver (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Gully
(German (Germany) Rinne Danish (Denmark) Rinne )

Usually a steep, elongated, eroded trench where wind transported snow may accumulate.

Gully (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Soft Shell Glove
(German (Germany) Soft Shell Handschuhe Danish (Denmark) Soft Shell handsker )

A thin soft shell glove is used in good weather or when you are sweating. They should only be used if you have a spare 2 chamber gloves in your backpack

Soft Shell Glove (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
two-chamber glove
(German (Germany) Zwei-Kammer-Handschuh Danish (Denmark) 2 Kammer handsker )

A good quality two chamber glove is essential when skiing or in the mountain, they are primarily used when you are not sweating, or should be in your backpack as a reserve in case you main gloves get wet or it gets colder

two-chamber glove (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

H

Harscheisen
(Danish (Denmark) Harscheisen German (Germany) Harscheisen )

These devices fit between the boot and the plate of the binding and allow a row of metal teeth to protrude downwards on either side of the ski. When the foot and the plate of the binding are raised the ski can glide forward; when the foot is lowered the teeth bite into the snow like a crampon.

Harscheisen (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Helicopter Air Rescue Six golden rules
(German (Germany) Hubschrauber Flugrettung Sechs goldene Regeln Danish (Denmark) Helikopter luft redning Seks gyldne regler )

1) Both arms upward, palms facing inwards, the marshal stands with his back against the wind. 2) Special precautions: No loose objects left lying 3) the eye contact is important to the pilot on the approach. Dashed zone entered only when stationary rotor. 4) Approaching the helicopter only from the front and in a lower posture 5) approach to the helicopter only from the valley side. 6) Be careful of antennas, skis, probe length, etc. objects bear horizontally to the helicopter

Reference
http://www.oeamtc.at/
Helicopter Air Rescue Six golden rules (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
HMS Karabiners
(Danish (Denmark) Låsekarabiner (HMS) German (Germany) HMS Verschlusskarabiner )

The Screw feature allows the karabinier not to open accidently.

HMS Karabiners (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Hut shoes
(German (Germany) Hüttenschuh Danish (Denmark) Hytte sko )

When you are in a hut you are not allowed to wear your hiking boots, so always bring a pear of slippers for the evening comfort.

Hut shoes (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

I

Ice Axes
(Danish (Denmark) Isøkse German (Germany) Eispickel )

Walking and general mountaineering axes are used to cut steps, climb easy snow and ice, prevent a slip, and to affect self arrest should you slip.

Ice Axes (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Ice screw
(Danish (Denmark) Isskrue German (Germany) Eisschrauben )

An ice screw is a screw used to protect a climb over steep ice or for setting up a crevasse rescue system.

Reference
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ice_screw
Ice screw (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Impregnating wax
(German (Germany) Imprägnierwachs Danish (Denmark) Imprægnering voks )

Special paraffin prevents wrinkling for long periods and improves the gliding properties of adhesive ski skins.

Impregnating wax (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

J

Jacket Multi function windstopper
(German (Germany) Jacke Multi function windstopper Danish (Denmark) Jakke Multi funktion )

A Multi function windstopper jacket as the last layer is important to keep rain, wind and water away. All latest models are also “breathable” so sweat can exit your body and no rain can enter. Combined with a fleece this will keep you warm with minimum weight

Jacket Multi function windstopper (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

L

Leathermann Multitools
(German (Germany) Leathermann Multitools Danish (Denmark) Leathermann Multitool )

A multi function tools is good to have to make small repairs on your equipment, it is important the multi tool has screwdrivers that fits the screws on your boots and bindings. Also spare screws for your boot and binding can be a big advantage.

Leathermann Multitools (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Lee slope
(German (Germany) Lee-Hang, Windschattenhang Danish (Denmark) Læ bjergside )

Slope facing down-wind where additional snow is deposited. Snow deposition can exceed several times the average snow depth. It is a terrain that is prone to accumulate wind drifted snow.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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LLB
(German (Germany) LLB Danish (Denmark) LLB )

German for Avalanche rapport (Lawinenlagebericht)

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Localization With Transceiver
(German (Germany) Punktortung Danish (Denmark) Lokalisering )

The Localization is the search in the vicinity of the victim are used to find the almost exact location of the victim. The cross technique technique is used to find the presumed location of the victim and to determine and the area for the probing set.

Localization With Transceiver (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

M

Mobilephone
(Danish (Denmark) Mobile telefon German (Germany) Handy (Notfall telefon) )

A mobile phone is good to have with you on your tours so you can call for help in case of emergency or to get the latest weather forecast. BUT it should be turned off during the tour so it doesn’t interfere with your avalanche rescue device.

Mobilephone (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page
Munter hitch
(Danish (Denmark) HMS knude German (Germany) Halbmastwurf )

The hitch is simply a set of wraps using a rope or cord around an object, generally a round object like a pipe, pole or more commonly, a carabineer. Its main use is as a friction device for controlling the rate of descent in belay systems.

Munter hitch (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

N

Nutter
(German (Germany) Klemmkeilentferner Danish (Denmark) Kileudtager )

The main function of the Nutter help release walnuts, so they be removed back out of the rock

Nutter (Click here to view full screen picture)To top of page

P

Packing list Ski mountaineering
(German (Germany) Ausrüstung Skitouren Danish (Denmark) Pakkeliste for ski-bjergbestigning )

Storm hood sunglasses sunscreen pocketknife reserve gloves food drink pencil and paper avalanche transceiver avalanche probe avalanche shovel first-aid kit emergency bivouac sack maps mobile altimeter

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Pants for Mountaineering
(German (Germany) Hose (Bergsporthose) Danish (Denmark) Bukser for Bjergbestigning )

A mountaineering pants for the entire year from stretchable, washable material must always be wtih you.

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Partner check
(German (Germany) Partnercheck Danish (Denmark) Partner check )

Please click the link to the left to see the video of how to make a proper partner check before starting climbing.

Reference
http://cms.alpenverein.de
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Pit Schubert
(German (Germany) Pit Schubert Danish (Denmark) Pit Schubert )

He is the author of numerous publications on mountaineering and climbing safety which have been translated into many languages.

Reference
http://www.theuiaa.org/
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Powder Cords
(German (Germany) Tiefschneebänder )

Powder cords are long, brightly colored cords made from durable fabrics that attach to your bindings and trail out from your skis when you fall

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Primary Search Avalanche rescue
(German (Germany) Grobsuche (Primäre Suchphase) Einzel Person Danish (Denmark) Primær søgning lavine redning )

The goal of the primary search is to receive a signal. Period. If you switch your transceiver to search mode and receive a signal, you have already completed the primary search.

Reference
http://de.wikipedia.org/
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Primary Search Avalanche rescue more persons
(German (Germany) Grobsuche (Primäre Suchphase) mehrere Personen Danish (Denmark) Primær søgning lavineredning ved mere personer )

The goal of the primary search is to receive a signal. when you switch your transceiver to search mode and receive a signal, you have already completed the primary search.

Reference
http://de.wikipedia.org/
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Probing
(German (Germany) Sondierung Danish (Denmark) Lokalisering )

The first injection point should be in the middle of a point in the positioning ski pole cross found be the cross technique. Then move the probe and insert with a distance of about 20 cm starting from the center

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Prusik
(German (Germany) Prusikknoten Danish (Denmark) Prusikknude )

The Prusik is a slide and grip knot; because it is symmetrical, it is useful if a load might need to be applied in either direction. The Prusik is a knot used mainly for emergency use

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Q

Quick draws
(Danish (Denmark) Karabiner German (Germany) Expressset/ Express Karabiner /Exe )

Carbines are used to make a secure connection between the climbing rope and safety point of a climbing wall or mountain side

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R

Recco
(German (Germany) Recco Danish (Denmark) Recco )

The RECCO® system is an exceptional additional search method since it can pinpoint the exact location of burial with harmonic radar. The equation that enables this search precision is an interaction between two critical parts, a reflector and a detector. The RECCO® detector is used by organized rescue groups, and RECCO® reflectors are permanently affixed by snow sports manufacturers to their commercially available clothing, helmets, boots or protection gear.

Reference
http://www.recco.com/
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Red colour = Medium Difficult Slopes
(German (Germany) Rote Farbe = Mittelschwierige Pisten Danish (Denmark) Rød farve = Nem piste )

Red Runs allowed a maximum of 30% cross and downhill slope angle, with the exception of short parts in the open terrain.

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Reductions method (3x3)
(German (Germany) Reduktionsmethode (3x3) Danish (Denmark) Reduktions metode (3x3) )

Werner Munter is the inventor of the reduction method. by using the risk factors and the degree of reduction factors such as steepness, exposure, the avalanche risk behaviour can be determined.

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Retention distance ascent
(German (Germany) Entlastungsabstände Aufstieg Danish (Denmark) Afstand ved opstigningen )

Precaution to ensure the snowpack is less burden so you minimize risk of triggering an avalanche

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Retention distances downhill
(German (Germany) Entlastungsabstände Abfahrt Danish (Denmark) Afstand ved nedkørsel )

Precaution to ensure the snowpack is less burden so you minimize risk of triggering an avalanche

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Rope on the glacier
(German (Germany) Anseilen am gletscher Danish (Denmark) Reb på Gletsjer )

Rope up will be done through an 8 knot and carbines with seal (HMS carabineer). Distances between the rope partners: 3-persons roped: 12 m 4-personse roped or larger: 10 m During the 3 person rope, break knots must also be used.

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S

Headlamp
(German (Germany) Stirnlampe Danish (Denmark) Pandelampe )

A descent into the darkness without a headlamp can be dangerous if your tour for whatever reason, is delayed, you should always have a headlamp in your backpack. Also in the huts at night without lights, a headlamp is practical

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Scarf
(Danish (Denmark) Halstørklæde German (Germany) Halstuch )

A scarf is good to have to protect you neck and head against cold, since your body looses most of the heat from the top regions of your body

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screw karabiner
(Danish (Denmark) Skrue karabin (HMS) German (Germany) Verschlusskarabiner )

Screw carbines is a carbines is equipped with a screw loch to ensure that carbines shutter does not open by accident. The difference between an HMS carbines and normal screw carbines is that it is not as wide.

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Seat Cushions
(German (Germany) Sitzunterlage Danish (Denmark) Pude )

When having a rest a small cushion is nice to have because I prevent you to get a cold or wet behind

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Secondary Search
(German (Germany) Feinsuche Danish (Denmark) Sekundær søgning )

The secondary search is the Secondary Transceiver Search after the primary search. The rescuer is now leaving his search pattern because his go a signal. With the Digital beacons the rescuer follows the direction of arrows shown on the beacon until he is in close range (2-4 meters). In close proximity he is changing his search to Localization.

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shady slope
(German (Germany) Schattenhang, schattenseitig, schattseitig Danish (Denmark) Skygge bjergside )

Slopes in the shade, not hit by the sun, typically north-facing slopes.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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Single ropes
(German (Germany) Einfachseile Danish (Denmark) Helreb (Enkeltreb) )

Single ropes are the most common type of ropes used. Depending upon diameter and length they can be used for most conditions. The main advantage is simple handling. A disadvantage is that only routes up to a half rope length high, with subsequent lowering or rappelling, can be climbed.

Reference
http://www.mammut.ch/
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Ski boot
(German (Germany) Skischuh Danish (Denmark) Skistøvle )

The ski boot gives the foot hold and provides a stabile connection from the foot to the ski. The ski boot has a special shape for the supports of the binding.

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Ski goggles
(German (Germany) Skibrille Danish (Denmark) Skibrille )

A ski goggles with red or yellow glass can improve you sight dramatically and is a must to protect your eyes from the wind and to improve your sight during bad weather conditions

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Ski helmet
(Danish (Denmark) Skihjelm German (Germany) Skihelme )

A Ski helmet should nowadays be standard equipment. 15% of all injuries by skiing are head injuries

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Ski mountaineering backpack pack list
(German (Germany) Ausrüstung im Rucksack Skibergsteigen, Skitouren Danish (Denmark) Udrustning i rygsæk for ski bjergbestigning )

Avalanche Probe Avalanche Shovel Bivouac sack First Aid Kit Head lamp Sunglasses (Mountain and Glacier) Extra pair of gloves Sun cream Paper towels Multi tool Wax for ski skins Emergency light-stick Energy bar Avalanche Transceivers (Wear on your body) Spare batteries for headlamp/Transceivers/GPS

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Ski mountaineering pole
(German (Germany) Skitourenstöcke Danish (Denmark) Ski bjergbestignings stokke )

In contrast to classic ski poles are for the tour ski walkers indispensable. Ski mountaineering sticks are adjustable in the height since different size of the pole is used in the ascent and descent.

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Ski mountaineering ski
(German (Germany) Skitouren Ski Danish (Denmark) Ski bjergbestigning ski )

Ski mountaineering ski are combined downhill and touring Skis. The Binding in a Ski mountaineering ski attaches only at the toe in walking mode, and can be set to downhill mode when skiing down.

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ski poles
(German (Germany) Skistöcke Danish (Denmark) Ski stokke )

Ski poles (sometimes called "stocks") are used by skiers to improve balance, speed and acceleration.

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Ski route
(German (Germany) Skiroute Danish (Denmark) Skirute )

A ski-route is generally accessible with skis and is clear marked and no avalanche danger is guaranteed, but neither prepared nor is controlled.

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Ski skins
(German (Germany) Skifelle/Steigfell Danish (Denmark) Ski Feller /Ski skind/Ski sælskind )

The Ski skins are a climbing aid. The Ski skins are attached to the ski to provide grip on the snow. They prevent the skis slip backwards and simultaneously allow the glide forward.

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Ski touring boots
(German (Germany) Tourenstiefel Danish (Denmark) Ski bjergbestigning støvler )

A Ski touring boots is a ski boot that can be set in flexible and ski mode. In flexible mode the top of the boot can move back and forward, so you can walk almost like a normal boot. When skiing is required the boot is set to ski mode at the boot is stiff.

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slab avalanche
(German (Germany) Schneebrettlawine Danish (Denmark) Snebræt lavine )

The simultaneous release of a cohesive snow layer (slab) characterized by a distinct fracture line (or crown fracture) at the top of the avalanche.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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Slings
(German (Germany) Bandschlinge Danish (Denmark) Slynge )

A sling or runner is an item of climbing equipment consisting of a tied or sewn loop of webbing that can be wrapped around sections of rock, tied to other pieces of equipment.

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slope angle
(German (Germany) Hangneigung Danish (Denmark) Hældnings vinkel )

moderately steep less than 30° steep 30 to 35° very steep 35 to 40° extremely steep over 40°

Reference
http://www.slf.ch/
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Slope closed
(German (Germany) Piste geschlossen Danish (Denmark) Løjpen er spærret )



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Spare batteries
(German (Germany) Ersatzbatterien )

You should always bring spare batteries for your lamp/GPS/avalanche receiver in case you get a flat battery

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Stop or Go Card
(German (Germany) Stop or Go Card Danish (Denmark) Stop or Go Card )

The Stop or Go Card from Michael Larcher is preferred by the Austrian Alpine Club (ÖAV) to asses the avalanche danger

Reference
http://www.alpenverein.at/
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Suncream
(German (Germany) Sonnenschutz Danish (Denmark) solcrem )

In the mountains the sun is much stronger than in lower altitudes, also the snow reflects the sun back. When you are in the mountains you need a high quality sun cream to protect your skin. I use the children version because it will not cause irritation in your eyes when you sweat

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Sunglasses
(German (Germany) Sonnenbrille Danish (Denmark) Solbrile )

To protect your eyes when you are in the mountain you need a high quality sunglasses with at least class 4 (Glacier proofed), also side protect so the sun can not shine in form the side is also preferable.

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Survival probability in a avalanche
(German (Germany) Überlebenswahrscheinlichkeit in einer Lawine Danish (Denmark) Overlevelse sandsynlighed in en lavine )

The likelihood of survival in an avalanche is within the first 15 minutes are relatively high (90%). Around 10% dies immediately because of the mechanical forces applied to the body during the time in the avalanche. After 15 minutes the chance of survival falls dramatically since no rescue team can be onsite and dig you within 15 minutes it is very important that you can find and dig your mates out your self.

Reference
http://www.avalanches.org
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T

Multi function t-shirt
(German (Germany) Multi-Funktion T-Shirt Danish (Denmark) Multi funktion t-shirt )

A multifunction t-shirt that’s transports you sweat away from your body is essential as first layer

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Telemark Skis
(German (Germany) Telemark Ski )

Telemark Skis are downhill or touring Skis. The Binding in a Telemark Ski attaches only at the toe.

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Thermos
(German (Germany) Thermoskanne Danish (Denmark) Termokande )

A Thermos is essential to have with you when you are in the mountains in cold weather. My favourite is peppermint tee with honey, gives you a boost when you are cold and thirsty

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Tibloc ascender
(German (Germany) Tibloc Seilklemme Danish (Denmark) TIBLOC Rebklemme )

A ultra-lightweight ascender can be used to build hauling systems or as a Prusik-replacement in self-rescue situations.

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Topo UIAA standard icon
(German (Germany) Topo UIAA Standard Icon Danish (Denmark) Topo UIAA standard ikon )

Icons from UIAA Guidebook used In TOPOS maps

Reference
http://www.theuiaa.org/
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Touring (Ski mountaineering) Bindings
(German (Germany) Tourenbindung Danish (Denmark) Ski tour (Bjergbestigning) bindinger )

For ski mountaineering there is a special combination of the automatic release and the Nordic binding. They fixated on the front, while the heel remains free, and can be used for the descent when turned into a normal ski binding

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Travel Sheets
(German (Germany) Hüttenschlafsacke Danish (Denmark) Lagenpose )

The Travel Sheets are rectangular or mummy-shaped sleeping bag liners which can be used as a sleeping bag for warm weather, or simply a sleep sack for traveling. It is mandatory in hostels and handy in adventure hotels

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Tree line Alps
(German (Germany) Waldgrenze Alpen (Baumgrenzen) Danish (Denmark) Trægrænse Alperne )

Alpine Tree line German Alps 1800 m Swiss Alps 2100 m

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Twin Ropes
(German (Germany) Zwillingsseile Danish (Denmark) Twinreb )

Twin ropes must only be used in pairs and are clipped together into each piece of protection, as with single rope technique (Twin rope technique). The two ropes offer redundancy and thus, increased safety in the case of shock loading over a sharp edge. They are therefore especially suited for alpine climbing or demanding routes where retreat may be necessary.

Reference
http://www.mammut.ch/
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U

UIAA
(German (Germany) UIAA Danish (Denmark) UIAA )

Official International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA = Union Internationale des Associations d‘Alpinisme)

Reference
http://www.theuiaa.org/
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UIAGM
(German (Germany) UIAGM Danish (Denmark) UIAGM )

International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA/IVBV/IFMGA) (UIAGM = Union internationale des associations de guide de montagne) Highly competent guides with a high level of training, the highest in existence, is required in four different disciplines in order to become a certified IFMGA mountain guide: rock climbing, ice climbing, mountaineering and ski mountaineering. IFMGA training gives a guide the ability to work on any mountain range whether they already know the mountain or not. It takes five to 10 years to become a mountain guide, from the moment they start serious mountaineering to the moment when they receive their guide diploma.

Reference
http://www.ivbv.info/
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V

Via ferrata set
(German (Germany) Klettersteigset Danish (Denmark) Via Ferrata Set )

A Via ferrata set secures hikers or mountain climbers against falling. It consists of a rope on the harness, and two snap hooks from which at least one can be attached to the via ferrata wire. In addition, it consists of a braking device in the form of a perforated plate that slows the fall by dynamic friction when the rope passage through and avoids a hard fall.

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W

Hexentric (Walnuts)
(Danish (Denmark) Klemkiler German (Germany) Klemmkeile )

The Hexentric (Walnut) is placed in a crack or clamped in the rock so a carabineer be attach and the rope can be clicked in.

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weight difference by climbing
(Danish (Denmark) Vægt forskel ved klatring German (Germany) Gewichtsnterschied von Kletterern )

The max weight difference between 2 climbers should be maximum 20%

Reference
berg und steigen 2008
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wet snow avalanche
(German (Germany) Nassschneelawine Danish (Denmark) Våd sne lavine )

Avalanche consisting of wet snow. Compared to a dry snow avalanche, the flow speed of a wet snow avalanche is usually slower and therefore the run out distance is usually shorter. However, the impact on obstacles is considerable due to the higher density of wet snow.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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whumpfing, collapsing sound
(German (Germany) Wumm geräusch Danish (Denmark) Whumpfs lyd )

Distinctive sound (“whumph” or “whumpf”) that occurs when a weak layer below a slab collapses.. The sound usually indicates an unstable situation and can be accompanied by cracking. Repeated whumpfs are a clear alert of avalanche hazard.

Reference
http://www.slf.ch
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wind speed
(German (Germany) Windstärke Danish (Denmark) Vind hastighed )

low: 0 – 20 km/h moderate (incl. moderate to strong): 20 – 40 km/h strong (incl. strong to very strong): 40 – 60 km/h very strong (also strong storms): 60 – 100 km/h hurricane: > 100 km/h

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windward slope
(German (Germany) Luv-Hang Danish (Denmark) Luvart bjergside )

Slope facing the wind

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